Close to 70 miles west of the most southern point of the continental US, sits a cluster of white sand islands and coral reefs that first appear as a mirage. As the ship navigated near, a sharper image of paradise comes into view. A cacophony of birds surround you and the crystal clear turquoise waters practically invite you in. Then you see Fort Jefferson, a bright brick fortress surrounded by a moat and a lingering feeling of abandonment. But the place comes alive quickly as tourists unload and disperse with snorkel gear, cameras, towels and pale skin in a cloud of sun screen spray.
Brian and I enjoyed the ride out very much. We sat on the bow and watched ballyhoo and flying fish scurry left and right as the catamaran cut through the 1 foot seas with ease. We signed up for the 20 minute talk to learn more about the history of the fort as well as the environment and sea creatures that inhabit the islands today. The Islands were first named Las Tortugas meaning “The Turtles” in 1513 by Spanish explorer Ponce de León. You can imagine that sailors of this time were creating navigational charts around the world for the very first time. Calling these islands The Turtles on a chart was allotting future sailors to know that these islands had a healthy resource of food. Yes, sea turtles. Las Tortugas was soon changed to Dry Tortugas because though there was plenty of food to eat, there was indeed a lack of fresh water to drink.
A pivotal treaty signed between France and the United States on April 30, 1803 has shaped America as we know it today. You know it as the Louisiana Purchase. Land stretching from the Mississippi River to the Rocky Mountains not only added roughly 800,000 square miles but also complete access to the Gulf Stream. Mariners, including Brian, have always known the Dry Tortugas as a vital navigational aid when rounding the Florida Keys. Heading towards the Gulf of Mexico this is the last navigational hazard before making the turn towards the Mississippi River and on the return route is the navigational reference to help locate the Gulf Stream. It was also used as a safe anchorage for vessels battling a heavy storm while transitting the surrounding waters. For you land lovers, the Gulf Stream is a powerful current that starts in the Gulf of Mexico and flows into the Atlantic rounding the tip of Florida and accelerating north along the eastern North American coastline. Trade winds from Africa drive water in the Atlantic westward until it hits the coastline and gets pushed northward. It is part of the North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre, one of the five major oceanic gyres, which are large systems of circular currents and powerful winds. So imagine discovering this in the 1500’s. It was like finding Hansel and Gretel’s bread crumb trail. The Gulf Stream was your ticket home. So how do you protect it? Fortify it of course! By 1829 the United States knew it could control navigation to the Gulf of Mexico and protect Atlantic-bound Mississippi River trade. Fort Jefferson’s construction began in 1846 on Garden Key and went on for 30 years but was never completed. During the Civil War the fort served as a prison. The most famous prisoners were several convicted of complicity in President Abraham Lincoln’s assassination in 1865. The Army abandoned the fort in 1874, still incomplete. In 1908 the area became a wildlife refuge to protect the sooty tern rookery. Fort Jeffereson became a National Monument in 1935 and was designated by Franklin D. Roosevelt. The monument was expanded in 1983 and redesignated as Dry Tortugas National Park in 1992.
After learning all this amazing history, we ate a quick lunch on the boat while chatting with an enthusiastic and encouraging life traveler and sky diver who gave us wonderful and positive advice about life. After lunch, we headed out to the beach to shed our outer layer of clothes, lather up with sun screen and put on our snorkel gear. We saw a parrot fish, tang, conchs and lots of barracudas while looking down from the ocean surface. With our remaining time, we explored the fort. But by 1445 we had to be back on the ferry for the 2 1/2 hour ride home back to the main land. Brian and I grabbed a couple tall boys and resumed position as bow lookouts.
We decided not to spend the night in Key West but hit a couple happy hours, watched the sunset and enjoyed a really nice dinner on Duval Street. Our last stop was at the southern most point monument, an obligatory Key West sight seeing staple.
Fort Jefferson
Our trusty tourguide
Brown pelican
Lighthouse and ballyhoo
Brick beach
View from up top
Next Stop: Biscayne National Park, FL
