Banff

Our drive through Jasper National Park led us directly into Banff. Of course it wasn't without some treachery. It was snowing the whole way as as we climbed up and over the mountain passes and in some areas the driving was nerve wracking. Once section in particular, we saw cars askew on both sides of the road from the slick conditions. Brian drove steadily through with the camper trailing behind. Ease came when we reached our destination, Lake Louise. We grabbed lunch and a cold Canadian brew at the local hostel before we settled in at the campground. 

We spent our day in Lake Louise hiking up to see the turquoise meltwater from above. For obvious reasons, Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier is the most photographed location throughout the Rockies. That beautiful blue comes from the glacial meltwater. Sediment from rocks grinding together underneath the glacier creates a fine powder which becomes suspended in the water. It is is so fine that it never settles and absorbs and scatters varying colors of sunlight giving us the vibrant greenish-blue appearance. 

We hiked up to the Lake Agnes Tea House even though it was closed for the season. The 3.6km trail was packed down with snow but the sun was shining and the temperature was pleasantly cold. 

Continuing south, we drove through Kootenay National Park and couldn't leave without a midday swim at Radium Hot Springs. The natural aspect of the hot springs has been taken away and replaced with large cement pools but the relaxation was the same. 

Canada, it's been great, but we are anxious to cross back into the border of the good ole US of A. Until next time, eh? 

Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier

Little Beehive

Lake Agnus

Next Stop: Glacier National Park, Montana

Jasper

2000 miles has led us out of Alaska, through British Columbia, around parts of the Yukon and into Alberta to our first Canadian National Park, Jasper. The Canadian Rockies are beautiful. Big, bold, jagged and snow capped, they divide our continent from east and west. Everything that rains down the eastern side ultimately flows into the Atlantic and all precipitation on the west into the Pacific. Immediately upon entering we witnessed a herd of bighorn sheep with no other agenda in mind other than to graze on the roadside grasses. We camped at the only open winter campground, Wapiti. We have also recently learned that wapiti [wop-i-tee] means literally "white rump" and is the native definition of elk. 

With so much driving we've been really itching to get out and stretch the legs. We chose the Wabasso Lake loop and carried a day pack and our car cramped selves around the 17km path. Brian even thought it necessary to take a dip in the freezing cold emerald lake! The trail was long and mostly flat and quiet. Exactly what we needed.

 Big Mac and a Bighorn sheep

Bighorn sheep crossing

 Holy bull Elk 

Columbia Ice Field

Next Stop: Banff National Park 

The Drive South

The start of our sixth leg has arrived. We’ll be traveling south with the Trumpeter swans through Canada and back into the lower 48. We’re trying to finish up our Pacific Northwest tour by visiting all the National Parks in Montana, Wyoming, Idaho and Washington.  

I met Brian with the trailer in tow in Anchorage. He safely returned home from sea and an all guys weekend spent in Colorado and Utah for an adventurous bachelor party. I've heard some stories but haven't seen much for pictures! 

We drove the Alaska Highway, 1382 miles, in its entirety this time taking us in and out of B.C. and the Yukon and then diagonally down and away into Alberta. Alaska couldn't quite let us go without flattening a couple of our tires. Luckily there was a large pull off and the warm sun at our backs as we replaced one tire on the truck and then later a trailer tire. We made it to Tok for some rubber repair and rest from the road. We took care of everything in the morning and then continued on to cross the Canadian border. Shortly after we ventured into the foreign territory, snow came. The second night we slept in Beaver Creek but after that we spent most nights sleeping in pull offs we saw along the way. The highlight of our days and nights on the road was stopping in Watson Lake to put our sign amongst the sign post forest and later going for a midnight swim in Liard Hot Springs. There we witnessed some strange, interesting and comical Canadian interactions. It was just what we needed. The other highlight of the drive was seeing so much wildlife. Bison, Bighorn sheep, elk and Brown bears are pictured below but we also saw a fox, coyote, deer, a black bear, porcupines and numerous grouse. 

Before we cross back into the states, we'll be spending a few days in Canada's National Parks Jasper and Banff respectively. We're ready for lots of hiking, sightseeing and snow dodging. Glad to be back! 

Sign Post Forest, Watson Lake, YT Canada

Brian and the BDUSAHIDEOUT sign 

Don't let the muggles get you down! 

Bison

A mama brown bear and cubs

Bighorn sheep

Elk

Next Stop: Jasper National Park, Alberta

Ode to Homer

I spent the summer parked at the Driftwood Inn RV Park with an ocean view and a path leading to Bishop’s Beach. The sun rose early and set late. Yet the seasons seamlessly slipped from one to the other hardly without anyone noticing. Overnight all the leaves were glowing yellow and the only thing that remained of my beloved fireweed was tall stalks and wispy white seeds floating on the breeze searching for winter shelter. 

Working at the Bear Creek Winery was wonderful. The owner's, Bill and Dorothy Fry, are two of the kindest and most generous people that you could ever meet. Not to mention their ability to make phenomenal wine. What once was Bill's garage hobby, is now a booming business. The people of Alaska and those visiting the great state absolutely love Bear Creek wine. My summer job was also a small pipe dream of mine. I have no idea why but working behind a bar has just always enticed me. Stocking the wine cellar, weighing the local berries brought in by neighbors near and far and washing and drying endless tasting glasses were all part of the daily routine. I had the most fun giving wine tastings. I really enjoyed chatting with the customers about where they are from, seeing most were tourists. I also loved learning more about the winemaking process and sometimes assisting with the bottling, racking or labeling. The people I worked with are amazing and quickly welcomed me into their circle of friends inside and outside of work. I am very grateful for that. Did I mention that we were fed lunch everyday? Grandma Ruth, Bill's mother, who lives above the winery sent down a delicious hot meal everyday. What other job feeds you, pays you and gives you bottles of wine as an added bonus? Seriously, my jobs may be few and far between at times but I always seem to find the real gems. I even got to meet a celebrity! Zac Brown and his lovely wife came in for a tasting. It was only my second week of work and luckily I didn’t realize who he was until they were almost through with their tasting. I was still trying to memorize all the ingredients in the wine never mind perform for  a world class country artist and his wife! They were so sweet and fun to chat with and clearly not overwhelmed with the entitlement of fame.

Another of my favorite things about Homer is that it is a foodie hotspot. Two Sister’s Bakery, The Bagel Shoppe, The Little Mermaid, Mike’s, and Fat Olives are just the beginning of a long list of amazing restaurants in town. Homer also has a killer Farmer’s market with beautiful produce, baked goods, birch syrup and fresh seafood. The best hiking is across Katchemak Bay in Kachemak Bay State Park. I ventured over there three times. 

The best trip across the bay was with my cousin MaryKate. She flew all the way from Boston to visit me and Alaska for five days in the middle of September. Within two hours of her landing at the Homer Airport, I had her on a water taxi heading across Kachemak Bay. We camped at a yurt inside Tutka Bay on the first night, hiked the Grace Ridge Trail the second day and then spent the night in another yurt on the other side of the trail on Kayak Beach. It was all so gorgeous. It was also a great opportunity for me to get to know my lovely cousin on a one on one basis. We really had the best time. 

Other highlights of my Homer stay included seeing the northern lights from the bow of a friend’s boat on the night of the Black Moon, solo camping next to Grewink Glacier, Keith and Sharon coming down to visit, a Friendsgiving gathering, biking to work (almost) everyday, volunteering for one day with Katchemak Bay State Park and representing Bear Creek Winery on the Alaska Railroad for an Alaska Tourism Convention. 

Nothing twists, turns and tugs at my insides like leaving Alaska. The turmoil of emotions I have can only be described as bittersweet. I feel a mess of sadness and gratitude as well as hope and warmth from memories. The turn of the seasons, the short autumn quickly slipping into winter, makes the departure feel more natural and at this point I think we can all acknowledge that I'll be back again someday. I could go on and on about Homer, the people there and the natural beauty of it that makes it such a unique and rewarding place to be. But for now I’ll just show you some of my favorite photos from the best place on earth. 

Grewink Glacier

Homer's Night Sky

A Loon with Poot's Peak in the background

View of Lake Clark National Park

Retired Sailors

Searching for the lights

Tutka Bay Outhouse

Sadie Cove

Sea Anemone